Autumn 2009 in Munich

Mum + Dad in Bavaria and Austria - August 2009

Mum and Dad back in Munich again and this time it's not sub-zero here. So we got out and about. Firstly a trip down to Chiemsee, a big lake down towards Austria about an hour and twenty from Munich by train.

Lovely scenery, massive lake surrounded by hills. In the lake are two islands Herrenchiemsee and Frauenchiemsee and loads of boats ferrying around the tourists. On Herrenchiemsee crazy King Ludwig built another of his palaces. This one copy of Versailles along with the manicured gardens. It is amazing and when they turned on the fountains the whole place came alive. Frauenchiemsee is a bit smaller and home to a Benedictine Nunnery which dates back to the 8th century. It's a nice walk around the island which is basically one big fishing village.

Salzburgerland

Hired a car for a long weekend down in Austria. We took the scenic route down via the Gerlos Alpenstrasse. A lovely drive winding up and then over a some decent hills.

On the way we passed the Krimml Falls. With a total height of 380 metres in three stages they are the highest waterfalls in Europe. Even at this time of year when the water levels are low it was still a spectacular sight.

From here we dropped down to Zell am See a pretty spot on the lake. Like everywhere around here I guess it really comes alive in ski season.

Großglockner Hochalpenstraße

From the website: "The most famous alpine road leads you into the heart of the Hohe Tauern National Park, to the highest mountain in Austria, the Grossglockner (3,798m) and its glacier, the Pasterze. You will have a driving and nature experience of a special kind on 48 kilometres of high alpine road with 36 bends, and an altitude ascent to 2,504 metres"

Probably the best road I've ever driven and the weather was amazing, the sort of day on which to tourist board would take its photos. We drove all the way to Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe where you get a good view of The Grossglockner.

A great drive but there were bloody idiots cycling up there, I guess for fun. I think I'll stick to the lovely Audi A3.

Berchtesgaden

On the way back to Munich we came back through Berchtesgaden. Probably most famous for Eagle's Nest Hitler's Alpine getaway. He may not have got much right but he could sure pick a beautiful spot. In the middle is Konigsee and it's surrounded by hills rising straight out of the water.

We drove around the Roßfeld straße, a toll road up over the hills which gave great views over Berchtesgaden and back over the flat expanse of Germany and then down to the lake. Judging by the amount of cars and buses in the car park the place should've been packed. But the area is huge and there are hundreds of walking trails, it wasn't too busy at all. Lovely spot wish we could've stayed longer.

Bosnia and Croatia - November 2009

Sarajevo

First stop stop Sarajevo. Border between East and West Roman Empires, the Ottomans, Austro-Hungarian Empire, Arch Duke Franz Ferdinand, Winter Olympics, Siege. That's all you really need to know about Sarajevo. Some call it the Jerusalem of the West, where all religions meet. No wonder there've been a lot of wars in the area!

As always the taxi ride from the airport was a real white knuckle ride. Why are all taxi drivers in these countries mad. The route in passes through 'Sniper's Alley' the way he drove I think I still thought he had to avoid the bullets. Cutting across lanes and running the lights all accompanied by the sound of a beeping horn. Sarajevo itself is quite nice. River running through to middle, a Middle Eastern area with mosques and a bazaar, generally looks quite poor and run down buy not as much war damage as I expected.

Journey to Dubrovnik

I decided to bus it around the Western Balkans. So up early for the 7:15 bus to Dubrovnik. Advertised as a 7 hour journey, thankfully it was only 6 hours. The journey was fantastic crossing first green valleys and over hills then dropping down the other side following the Neretva River. The Western side is a lot more Mediterranean more barren, much parched, lots of fruit trees. We passed through Mostar and then down to the Croatian border.

From here we joined the coast and then followed the stunning coast-line for 90km down to Dubrovnik. The Dalmatian Coast road is amazing hugging the sea looking out over the hundreds of islands that run down Croatia. Blue sky, blue sky, beautiful.

Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is tourist. An ancient port, a beautifully preserved (or is it rebuilt) walled city and a Cruise Boat in harbour so the tiny streets teaming with tourists. The boat / ship / bloody huge floating hotel was called the Costa Fortuna but judging by the people who came off it I'm assuming a place on the cruise didn't. But despite the number of people the Old City is gorgeous. It has been totally rebuilt and I guess is better than new. It City is built looking out to see, perfect City Walls, a main artery and many narrow streets leading off. Cobbled streets, Catholic Churches, fountains, restaurants and gift shops.

I didn't walk the City Walls (the must do in Dubrovnok) on Day 1 saving it for Day 2 hoping the cruise ship would've gone. But ... Day 2 was November 1st, All Saint's Day and the City in its wisdom had decided not to open the walls. Bloody religious idiots. But hey, I took a boat trip, climbed up for a view down on the City, had lunch sitting in the sun, this is starting to feel like a holiday.

Mostar

Back on the bus for 4 hours back to Mostar. We passed through on the way down so basically it was the reverse trip. Not complaining I got to see the beautiful Adriatic again.

Mostar was on the front line in the Civil War, the front line ran right through the City. Muslim and Christian, Mosques and Churches ... and 'that' bridge. The Stari Most, the destruction of which on 9/11/93 symbolised so much and brought the Bosnian War to everyone's attention. Otherwise Mostar is nice, cobbled streets, lovely views and a total tourist trap. Every shop in the Old Town selling rugs, copper pots, fridge magnets and pens made from bullets.

I stayed in the National Monument Museum (Muslibegovic House). An old Ottoman Mansion which has been restored and is open as a Museum (although closed in Winter). After breakfast before I left the owner gave me a private tour. Beautifully carved rooms, manuscripts, national dress, crafts, Ottoman Period medals and medallions. A bit more than your average hotel.